One of the intriguing things about Los Angeles is the sheer size and diversity of the place. The city is so spread out that it seems there's always somewhere new to discover.....Yesterday, my old friend Nell and I decided to go exploring the downtown area a bit. We grabbed our boards and took the metro train to McArthur Park, cruised around it, then bombed the hill from there into downtown.
It's an overwhelming place. I haven't spent much time at all in that area of the city, and it seems like a whole other world. It's congested, bustling, and generally filthy, which by itself doesn't necessarily differentiate it from Hollywood, but it has a completely different feel to it. The smells of the inner city brought me right back to Philly. (I guess exhaust and bum urine smell the same wherever you go.) We skated down 7th Street, hung a left on Broadway. Past the Mexican vendors, the beautifully decrepit old Marquis on theaters and churches and the home-boys on the corners. It seemed to me just like Woody Guthrie's description of downtown L.A. in the 1940's in his autobiography, 'Bound For Glory.' Cars and trucks belching endless exhaust, and every type of dirt you can imagine on everything.
We continued on, past the LA county courthouse and jail, and then we turned right on Temple. We found a great little wallride under a bridge to the courthouse (see attached pic and vid) and worked up an appetite, so we headed for J-Town, or 'Little Tokyo' as I've heard it called, and sat down in a tiny, amazingly delicious, authentic ramen noodle house. With our bellies full, we took a walk through Little Tokyo. The Japanese are up on their style! They seemed to have all the cool colors and styles of everything down there...it made all these hollywood hipsters look so passe. I'm gonna have to go back and cop some of that...I couldn't leave without buying a cool t-shirt with a 'Spirit of the Samurai' print on it for 5 bucks.
From J-town, we decided to head back to the Metro. We skated back towards 7th street, and I began to notice the environment changing quickly, block by block. The L.A. sun beat down on us, but all signs of life around us indicated that we were entering into a dark place. Homeless folks by the dozen. Pushing shopping carts, nervously pacing the streets in search of a fix. Hopeless, downtrodden people all around us. I pushed faster. We hung a right on 6th street and it was like we crossed into the next ring of purgatory. People everywhere, laying on the street, leaning in doorways, obviously in various stages of heroin intoxication. Some were in ecstasy, some were jonesing. I knew we were close to the infamous skid row. I've lived in cities before, watched people nodding off, buying drugs, selling drugs, and living the street life. But this was like nothing I've ever seen. I watched a tv show about it once, and heard people talk about it, but that didn't prepare me for seeing it in person. When we pushed past skid row, I couldn't believe it. It was an open air drug bazaar. Thousands of people inhabiting tents and boxes in a homeless village. The streets were completely full of the living dead. I wondered how all these people ended up there and I felt so sad. Wondered about where their families are and if they knew where their loved one was. Drug addiction is a horrible thing, and all I could think was that heroin must be an incredible high for all these folks to obviously not care about anything else in life. I've heard that people with jobs and houses go down there to take 'heroin vacations,' and pitch tents for a week or two just to get high. I've never had any interest in trying it myself, and after seeing skid row, I know I never will. My board carried me safely back to the Metro, and soon I was underground, happy to be rocketing North and thinking about my day.
The craziest thing is, one block further down the road is a big police station. It all goes down under the watchful (or participating) eye of the LAPD.
On a lighter note....here's a picture of that wallride...it looks cool, but do you think I made it? click the photo to find out.....
